Siena to Rome on the Via Francigena — 14 Stages to St Peter's

The last fourteen stages of the Via Francigena run from the Porta Romana in Siena to the colonnade of St Peter's Square. It is the section that ends with the Testimonium, and it is two walks in one: three long, exposed days across the Crete Senesi and the Val d'Orcia to the volcanic fortress of Radicofani, then eleven mostly shorter days through Tuscia — Lake Bolsena, the papal towns of Montefiascone and Viterbo, the Etruscan sunken roads around Sutri — and the Via Cassia into Rome.

All figures below are from the stage data behind the stage pages.

The fourteen stages

The three Tuscan days: Siena to Radicofani

The section starts with its hardest walking. Stages 70, 71 and 72 are 28, 27 and 32 km, and all three are marked scarce water and minimal shade — the only three stages in Italy with that combination. The warnings are consistent: "very exposed — carry extra water", "no services for long stretches", "brutally hot in summer" on the Crete Senesi day; "carry water — few fountains" and "start early in summer" through the Val d'Orcia; and on the climb to Radicofani, "carry at least 2L of water" and "thunderstorms can develop quickly in summer".

The reward is the most photographed countryside in Italy — the clay hills south of Siena, then the cypress ridges of the Val d'Orcia, a UNESCO landscape, with San Quirico d'Orcia and Bagno Vignoni at the end of stage 71 — and, on stage 72, the fortress of Radicofani on its extinct volcano at 814 m, visible for hours before you reach it. That stage is 991 m of ascent, the third-biggest climb on the entire route and, in the stage page's words, the hardest in Tuscany. Two ways to soften it: leave San Quirico at first light, and do not schedule it after a short night.

Best months for all three stages in the data are April to June and September to October; none lists July or August.

Lazio: Radicofani to Sutri

Stage 73 descends 605 m from Radicofani into Lazio, and the character changes at once — oak woods, hazelnut orchards, volcanic tufa. From here to Sutri the days are short: after two 23 km stages to Acquapendente and Bolsena, the next five are 17, 18, 18, 15 and 12 km, and every one is graded easy. Water is abundant on all of them and shade full or partial.

The towns are the reason to linger. Bolsena, on the largest volcanic lake in Europe, with the basilica of Santa Cristina over its catacomb. Montefiascone, a 543 m climb from the lakeshore to the Rocca dei Papi and the "Est! Est!! Est!!!" story. Viterbo, the City of the Popes, with the Palazzo dei Papi and the San Pellegrino quarter — the natural rest day of the section, and the town with rail access in the data. Then the Cimini hills along the old Via Cassia to Vetralla, the Etruscan sunken roads to Capranica, and Sutri, whose amphitheatre is cut entirely out of the rock — at the end of the route's shortest full stage, 12 km.

The last 100 km

The Testimonium is issued by St Peter's Basilica to pilgrims who have walked at least 100 km (or cycled 200 km) to Rome, verified by the stamps in the credential. Counting the published stage distances back from St Peter's Square:

• Acquapendente — 173 km, 10 stages
• Bolsena — 150 km, 9 stages
• Montefiascone — 133 km, 8 stages
• Viterbo — 115 km, 7 stages
• Vetralla — 97 km, 6 stages (short)

So the 100 km point lies on stage 77, about 3 km after leaving Viterbo. Viterbo is the last qualifying start; Montefiascone gives a margin that no detour will erode. Full detail, including cyclists, is in the credential and Testimonium guide.

Viterbo to Rome in a week: seven stages of 18, 15, 12, 22, 24, 16 and 8 km — 115 km, 1,961 m of ascent, about 29 walking hours, no stage graded hard. It is the gentlest week on the route that still ends with a Testimonium.

Into Rome: Sutri to St Peter's

The last four stages get longer again before the finish. Sutri to Campagnano (22 km) follows the Via Cassia through the campagna with some road walking; Campagnano to La Storta (24 km) crosses the Parco di Veio and the data warns of suburban sprawl and traffic in the final kilometres. La Storta to Monte Mario (16 km) is urban walking — follow the waymarks — up to the Mons Gaudii, where medieval pilgrims first saw the dome. The final 8 km descend Monte Mario, cross the Tiber at Ponte Milvio and follow the river to the Via della Conciliazione and St Peter's Square. The stage page's warnings for the last day are heavy crowds and pickpockets near the Vatican; keep the credential where you can reach it, because you present it at the reception desk to receive the Testimonium.

Days, rest days and season

Fourteen stage-days. Fifteen with a rest day in Viterbo, which has the thermal baths, the medieval quarter and the station. Sixteen if you add a night at Bolsena or Montefiascone, which is also the sensible way to break the two 23 km days.

The stage data lists April to June and September to October for every stage of the section; ten of the eleven Lazio stages add March and November, and the final 8 km into St Peter's is listed for every month of the year. July and August appear only for that last stage. The three Tuscan days are the reason: see best time to walk.

Getting to Siena

Siena's railway station is about twenty minutes' walk below the old town. Terre di Siena, the local tourism body, lists two rail routes from Rome — via Florence Santa Maria Novella, or via Chiusi–Chianciano Terme without going through Florence — and regional trains from Florence in under two hours. The nearest airport is Florence at about 55 km; Rome is the nearest international hub for long-haul arrivals. If you are walking here from Lucca, the Lucca to Siena guide covers the week before.

Leaving Rome

From St Peter's, Roma Termini is the main-line station for trains north. For flights, Fiumicino airport has its own railway station inside the airport, and Aeroporti di Roma lists two Trenitalia services: the Leonardo Express, non-stop to and from Roma Termini, and the FL1 regional trains to other Rome stations. If you left a car or luggage in Siena, the same two rail routes work in reverse.

Shorter versions

• Viterbo to Rome — 7 stages, 115 km, qualifies for the Testimonium.
• Bolsena to Rome — 9 stages, 150 km, adds the lake and Montefiascone.
• Siena to Viterbo — 7 stages, 168 km, the Val d'Orcia and Radicofani without the Rome approach; Viterbo has rail access.