Highlights
- Laon Cathedral
- Laon medieval upper town
- Panoramic views from hilltop
- Upper-town shuttle (the Poma tramway closed in 2016)
Stage conditions
| Section | France |
|---|---|
| Water on route | Moderate |
| Shade | Partial |
Practical notes
Getting there and away
Tergnier station has TER trains to Paris-Nord, Amiens, Compiègne, Laon and Saint-Quentin. Laon station, in the lower town, is served by TER Hauts-de-France to Paris-Nord via Soissons, to Amiens (P20), to Crépy-en-Valois (K15) and Aulnoye-Aymeries (P64), and by TER Grand Est to Reims (C10). The stage data still lists the Poma automatic tramway as a highlight, but it closed on 27 August 2016; a minibus shuttle now climbs the 95 m and 1.5 km from the station to the medieval upper town, or you walk it.
What the season does
April to October, partial shade. The climb to Laon's plateau is the first real ascent since Dover, and in July and August it is best done before the afternoon heat. The upper town is a tourist destination, so ring ahead for a bed on the hill in July and August. From mid-September the woods and fields of the Aisne are hunted until the end of February; weekdays are calmer. Winter days are short but Laon's cathedral is dramatic in low light.
Safety on this stage
The stage notes warn of the steep climb into the upper town: the lanes and stairways up the hill are cobbled and hard on tired legs. Before that, the route follows lanes and tracks across the Aisne plain with D-road crossings; walk facing traffic. The Poma no longer runs, so do not plan on it. In the upper town the ramparts have low walls in places; ordinary care with children and at night.
Water and food
Water is moderate. Tergnier has shops for the morning. The plain villages are small, so carry a full bottle for the day. Laon's lower town has supermarkets around the station and the upper town has cafés and restaurants along its main street; buy tomorrow's food here, because Corbeny has limited services. There are no fountains on the route.
Where pilgrims sleep
Laon is well supplied. Our directory lists hotels including La Bannière, the Hôtel Inn and Ibis, chambres d'hôtes such as La Maison des 3 Rois, Les Hôtes d'Éloïse and Les Chambres Boufflet, and the Camping La Chênaie. We don't list a pilgrim gîte in Laon yet; Pèlerinages de France mentions the Auberge de Vauclair for the Laon area. Choose between the lower town, near the station, and the upper town, on the route.
Sources: Wikipedia — Gare de Tergnier · Wikipedia — Gare de Laon · Wikipédia — Poma 2000 de Laon · Pèlerinages de France — Renseignements pratiques Via Francigena · Le Montagnard — Calendrier chasse France 2025-2026
Common questions
How long is the Tergnier to Laon stage?
It is 38.6 km (24.0 mi) and takes about 11 hours of walking, from Tergnier to Laon.
How hard is Tergnier to Laon?
It is rated moderate with 421 m of ascent and 313 m of descent over mixed terrain.
Is there water on the Tergnier to Laon stage?
There is a moderate amount of water along this stage — carry enough between resupply points.
How do I get to Tergnier and away from Laon?
Tergnier station has TER trains to Paris-Nord, Amiens, Compiègne, Laon and Saint-Quentin. Laon station, in the lower town, is served by TER Hauts-de-France to Paris-Nord via Soissons, to Amiens (P20), to Crépy-en-Valois (K15) and Aulnoye-Aymeries (P64), and by TER Grand Est to Reims (C10). The stage data still lists the Poma automatic tramway as a highlight, but it closed on 27 August 2016; a minibus shuttle now climbs the 95 m and 1.5 km from the station to the medieval upper town, or you walk it.
Where do pilgrims sleep in Laon?
Laon is well supplied. Our directory lists hotels including La Bannière, the Hôtel Inn and Ibis, chambres d'hôtes such as La Maison des 3 Rois, Les Hôtes d'Éloïse and Les Chambres Boufflet, and the Camping La Chênaie. We don't list a pilgrim gîte in Laon yet; Pèlerinages de France mentions the Auberge de Vauclair for the Laon area.
Walk this stage
Open the full stage list to plan the legs either side, browse heritage along the route, or get the free Via Francigena Walk app for offline maps and GPS on the trail.