Highlights
- Cisa Pass (1041m)
- Gateway to Tuscany
- Chestnut forests
- Pontremoli old town
Stage conditions
| Section | Apennines (Italy) |
|---|---|
| Water on route | Moderate |
| Shade | Full |
| Mountain pass | Yes — check seasonal opening before you set out |
Practical notes
Getting there and away
Berceto's station is at Ghiare in the valley below, linked to the town by TEP's on-demand Pronto Bus Extra; the Tuscan route site says you can also book the Prontobus on 800 977900 (before 14:00) to be taken up to the Cisa pass. From the Tuscan side, bus line L04 runs between Pontremoli and the Passo della Cisa, and in 2026 is extended on school days to Berceto. Pontremoli, at the end, is on the Parma–La Spezia line with regional trains to Parma and La Spezia, a staffed ticket office, a bar and a bus stop, so leaving is easy.
What the season does
Best months are May, June, September and October; the stage data drops July and August despite full shade, and warns of fog at the pass. The Cisa at 1,041 m is one of the few Apennine passes never closed in winter, but it is the wettest part of the range, with October the wettest month, and the ridge is often in cloud. Spring is green and cool with high water in the Magra; autumn is chestnut season and the best light, with fog risk. Snow on the pass is possible from late autumn to spring.
Safety on this stage
Graded hard: 32 km, 8.5 hours, and the stage data's warnings are to start early, expect a steep descent hard on the knees, and fog at the pass. The Tuscan route site rates the descent very demanding, from over 1,100 m to about 400 m at Groppoli, with 55 per cent mule tracks and paths through chestnut woods that are slippery when wet; use poles. The old road over the pass is quiet but has bends without sightlines. Keep to the waymarks in fog, and carry a waterproof: this is the wettest pass on the route.
Water and food
Water is marked moderate, and the day is long. Berceto has shops for the start and the sanctuary and hostel at the pass have water in season. On the Tuscan side, the source stage page confirms fountains in every inhabited centre, but the hamlets are small: Cavezzana d'Antena, Groppoli, Previdè, Groppodalosio, Casalina, Toplecca di Sopra and Arzengio. Carry two litres from Berceto, refill at the pass and again at Groppodalosio by the medieval bridge. Pontremoli has everything.
Where pilgrims sleep
Our directory has no listing yet at Pontremoli, but the town has a large pilgrim house. The Ospitale San Lorenzo Martire in the former Capuchin convent on Via ai Cappuccini, run by the Capuchin friars' missionary group, has about 60 beds including 15 single rooms, an equipped kitchen for self-catering, a chapel and Wi-Fi; reception is 15:00 to 19:00 or by phone appointment, the town is a few hundred metres away, and it issues credentials to pilgrims starting in Pontremoli. The source stage page also lists the Ostello Castello del Piagnaro. At the pass itself, the Ostello Passo della Cisa has 24 beds from 3 April to 30 September.
Sources: Wikipedia (it) — Stazione di Berceto · Regione Emilia-Romagna (Ambiente) — Berceto, collegamenti con i mezzi pubblici · Via Francigena Toscana — Tappa 22, dal Passo della Cisa a Pontremoli · Provincia di Massa-Carrara — Linea Passo della Cisa – Berceto prolungata dal 2026 · Wikipedia — Pontremoli railway station · Wikipedia (it) — Passo della Cisa · Camminando sulla Via Francigena — IT22 Passo della Cisa – Pontremoli · Ospitale San Lorenzo Martire, Pontremoli — Ospitalità · Francigena Toscana — Da Cassio al Passo della Cisa: ospitalità ai pellegrini
Common questions
How long is the Berceto to Pontremoli stage?
It is 32.0 km (19.9 mi) and takes about 8.5 hours of walking, from Berceto to Pontremoli.
How hard is Berceto to Pontremoli?
It is rated hard with 650 m of ascent and 900 m of descent over mountain terrain.
Is there water on the Berceto to Pontremoli stage?
There is a moderate amount of water along this stage — carry enough between resupply points.
Is Berceto to Pontremoli open all year?
This stage crosses a mountain pass, so it is seasonal. Check the pass is open before you set out.
How do I get to Berceto and away from Pontremoli?
Berceto's station is at Ghiare in the valley below, linked to the town by TEP's on-demand Pronto Bus Extra; the Tuscan route site says you can also book the Prontobus on 800 977900 (before 14:00) to be taken up to the Cisa pass. From the Tuscan side, bus line L04 runs between Pontremoli and the Passo della Cisa, and in 2026 is extended on school days to Berceto. Pontremoli, at the end, is on the Parma–La Spezia line with regional trains to Parma and La Spezia, a staffed ticket office, a bar and a bus stop, so leaving is easy.
Where do pilgrims sleep in Pontremoli?
Our directory has no listing yet at Pontremoli, but the town has a large pilgrim house. The Ospitale San Lorenzo Martire in the former Capuchin convent on Via ai Cappuccini, run by the Capuchin friars' missionary group, has about 60 beds including 15 single rooms, an equipped kitchen for self-catering, a chapel and Wi-Fi; reception is 15:00 to 19:00 or by phone appointment, the town is a few hundred metres away, and it issues credentials to pilgrims starting in Pontremoli. The source stage page also lists the Ostello Castello del Piagnaro.
Walk this stage
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